New Studies Highlight Complexities in EU Textile Waste and Recycling

Recent research from Denmark and Eastern European countries provides new insights into the challenges and opportunities in textile waste management and recycling within the European Union.

Diana Butron

Danish Study Links Garment Design to Recyclability

A new Danish study, "Assessing the circularity potential of textile flows for future markets in Denmark: A study of textile anatomy", examines the relationship between textile garment anatomy and its impact on recycling outcomes. The research involved the collection and sorting of various textile items and found that garment complexity significantly affects recycling routes.

Key findings include:

• 36% of textiles intended for recycling are ultimately incinerated due to design complexity.
• 53% require removal of "recycling disruptors" such as zippers, buttons, padding, or sequins.
• Only 11% can be directed to current recycling streams without modification.
• Just 2% of textiles are suitable for high-quality fibre-to-fibre recycling.

The study emphasizes that effective textile recycling planning should:

• Account for the anatomy and structure of garments.
• Support methods that remove disruptors without damaging staple fibres.
• Enable better planning for material and quality losses through targeted removal strategies.
• Improve coordination across the value chain — from citizens to sorters — with support from policy interventions.

Researchers also stress that global fibre production trends are not reliable indicators for determining available feedstock for recycling. Inadequate recyclability negatively affects sorting efficiency and feedstock value, which could be improved by sorting textiles according to layers and disruptors before recycling.

Eastern European Study Explores Waste Composition and Reuse Potential

A second study, titled"Fate and Composition of Textile Waste from Italy, the Czech Republic and Romania," focuses on textile waste characteristics in terms of reusability and recyclability. This research addresses a previously underexplored area and analyzed 18 tonnes of textiles collected between November 2023 and June 2024.

Key outcomes include:

• 40% of textiles were sorted for reuse within the EU.
• 23% were destined for reuse outside the EU, with 75% of these showing no significant defects.
• Another 23% were sorted for either open-loop or closed-loop recycling.

The researchers noted that reuse rates were higher than previously reported, possibly due to differing sorting standards. Among reusable textiles, fewer than 65% consisted of fibre blends or cotton-rich materials, making them suitable for mechanical or chemical fibre-to-fibre recycling.

The study also found a higher presence of textile waste in mixed municipal waste streams compared to Western European countries. This was primarily low-value items, reinforcing the importance of improved sorting to support local reuse and sustainable waste management.

Furthermore, the material composition of post-consumer textiles was found to be suitable for recycling at scale, suggesting that material complexity is not the primary barrier — rather, collection and preparation systems must be improved.

Different Regional Realities Shape Recycling Outcomes

The two studies reveal contrasting results:

• In Denmark, only 11% of textiles were ready for direct recycling, and 53% needed disruptor removal before processing.
• In Italy, the Czech Republic, and Romania, a greater share of waste was directed toward reuse, and only 23% was allocated to recycling.
• Importantly, the Eastern European study excluded multilayered garments, noting a lack of infrastructure or business interest in disassembling such items.

These differences highlight how textile recycling efficiency is influenced by regional waste composition, sorting practices, and infrastructure.

Conclusion: One Size Does Not Fit All

Textile recycling remains a complex and region-specific challenge. These studies underline the importance of tailored strategies that consider the local waste composition and available infrastructure. As the EU moves towards mandatory textile collection and circular economy targets, insights like these are critical to inform policy, innovation, and investment in recycling technologies.